Better pictures

I'm getting (slightly) better at taking pictures of my models. Bear in mind, when reading the following, I'm an absolute photography noob. Feel free to weigh in (semi-)expert opinions :-).
I use a simple compact camera, but have been playing around with the following parameters:

• No more handheld photos. I bought a cheap tripod (€4.50), about 15cm high.
• Remove all artificial light sources. They gave me unrealistic shadows anyway. I shot the pictures below on the floor of the spare bedroom, on a big white sheet of wallpaper. The only light source was indirect sunlight, the lights were turned off.
• Play around with camera settings on manual. Mine has an M-mode ("manual"), allowing to control diaphragm (lens opening) and shutter speed (i.e. exposure time = time the lens is open).
• put diaphragm as high as it goes, so you have focus in the front AND in the back (and not just on one point of the model), or at least as much as you're camera will allow (mine goes from 5.4 to 8.0, not a wide range)
• increase exposure time as high as needed, until the picture is clear enough. Normally this will be around 1/30 or 1/80 or much lower (the higher the fraction number, the lower the exposure time) for well-lit scenes. I set it to 1/1, i.e. 1 second. This is where the tripod is an absolute must-have.

Chinook - Finished

This one was as good as finished in september 2014, but kept sitting on the bench, because I wanted to add some finishing touches. I wanted to tone down the overall colours with some fine dusting and also add some staining behind the exhausts.

I used AK Interactive "Dust effects", diluted with white spirit and applied with the airbrush. It could have been more carefully applied, and managed to creep under some of the decals, actually accentuating the carrier film. Oh well ...
For the exhaust stains I used black oil paint and earth-coloured pigments. Not entirely to my satisfaction, but if you don't go too close, it looks as intended.

Kit : CH-47D Chinook HC.Mk1
Scale : 1/72
Manufacturer : Revell
Price : around €10 (second-hand)
Number of parts : 126
Time spent : 32.5 hours
Project completion time : 14 months

Paint : (Vallejo)

• Black primer
• Pale grey blue (71.046) - Base coat
• Gunship green (71.014) - Green "stripes"
• US Grey (71.046) - Interior
• Scarlet red (71.003) - Outside + seats
• Black grey (71.056) - Rotor blades (better than black)

Other products :

• Alclad II klear kote (semi-matte) as varnish
• AK Interactive "Dust effects"
• AK Interactive "Dark earth" & "European earth" pigments
• Mig productions Abteilung 502 "Starship filth"
• Evergreen styrene strips and rods, Tamiya masking tape for scratch-building the interior seats.

Findings or issues?

A beautiful model of an impressive machine. Fit issues when closing the hull and later the bottom, but nothing a modeller with a few models under his belt shouldn't be able to solve through patient filling and sanding. The cockpit needed major surgery to close.

I didn't dare use the provided decals for the large black&red strips, so painted them instead.

AB cleaner eats Future

I've made a small discovery. Well, "discovery" is the wrong word, because it's actually completely logical, but let's stick with that word.

I've been trying to paint this mini Rubik's cube for years (literally!). It's been a pain cleaning it's surface of whatever dirty glue they used to keep the stickers on and when I finally got it clean enough, no paint would stick to it. In fact, the paint just peels of again.

Anyhow. Once every few months, I manage to build up the courage to paint ONE side, then let dry and treat it with multiple layers of "Future" (Currently: Pledge's "Floor care - Tile & Vinyl Floor finish"). It's the only product so far that keeps the paint on the plastic.

So, what did you discover !?
I had just painted the third side bright red. After removing the masking tape, I saw some of the red paint had creeped under the tape and stained the blue side. I would normally clean up with thinner, but couldn't find the thinner right away, so opted for Vallejo's Airbrush cleaner. I though it'd be safe, since the blue was already under multiple layers of Future.

Guess again! The cleaner ate the future AND the blue paint. Now, this shouldn't be THAT surprising, since Future is also an acrylic and therefor a bad protection against an acrylic product cleaner.

It immediately made me think of a technique I recently read, namely Mike Rinaldi's alternative for the hairspray technique (or chipping fluid). He calls it "Lacquer thinner dry-brushing".
Basically, once you have multiple layers of paint on your model (like camouflage on top of red primer, or just several different shades of Olive Drab), you wet a fine brush with lacquer thinner (only slightly moist) and softly start working on the surface. Little flakes (let's call them "chips"?) of the paint will start to come loose, just like when you're using the hairspray technique, except that this does not depend on any intermediate product to be applied beforehand.

In my case, I went all the way to he plastic of course - which isn't how this technique is intended - but I'm considering giving this one a go in favour of my not-so-successful attempts at the hairspray technique so far. (mostly undocumented yet, so you haven't read much about it)
An in-between layer (e.g. varnish) that does not respond to the cleaner might solve the problem of "going to deep", but Mister Rinaldi is no fan of varnishes. I am however, but it's safe to say his experience and skill outweighs mine by a huge factor.

I'd say "stay tuned for test results", but at the rate I'm currently going, that'll be sometime next year.

Stay tuned anyway, I'm intending to actually finish a few projects rather soon(-ish).

AC130H - Identifying unknown parts

In many model kits, we are often confronted with parts that make us think "What the hell is this part?". We start looking at photos, references, subject documentation, and still find no reason to attach said piece of plastic to the model, especially if it looks weird and out-of-place.

Usually, these are optional parts, but it baffles me how often they are simply omitted from the building instructions, leaving you to wonder why they exist. Old incorrect parts, that were fixed in a re-release? Intended for future kits for a slightly different version? Who knows ...

I had this issue with multiple parts on the Chinook, and simply did not install them. On the AC130H, I now faced the same problem. On page 10, some kind of "box" is supposed to go over each engine. It's exact placement is hard to deduce from the drawing. Is it supposed to fit over or after the engine? What does it do?

On the model, they look a bit weird and not really part of the engine setup.

 You can see straight through it and I have no idea what it's for.

The box-art shows no trace of anything behind the engine (see previous post).

Google is your friend.
I started looking at my reference photos and blueprints and could find no evidence of anything being there. Until suddenly, I started finding photos that did appear to have something box-shaped behind the engines.
It wasn't until I added "engine" and "shield" together to the search terms, that the solution presented itself.

The answer!
Starting with the 130U, IRSS (infra-red suppression system) was added to mask the engine's heat signature, thus reducing it's visibility in the infra-red spectrum, used in sensors and (more importantly) heat-seeking weapons. The 130H appears to have been retro-fitted with the same heat shields.

So, now we know what it is and we have found photographic evidence that it was used on this version, I see no reason not to use these parts.

AC130H Spectre Unboxing

Today we will be opening up ESCI's 1/72 AC130H "Spectre".

It's not a kit that I though I would be building anytime soon. Admittedly, the C130 Hercules (which I though this was after a cursory glance at the box) is a formidable transport plane and I've seen it fly overhead at low altitude a few dozen times (we have a few in our army), but it hadn't quite peeked my interest yet to promote it from the stash to the workbench.

What is it?
The AC130H is no transport plane. It's a gunship, and heavily armed at that. Basically, it's a flying tank, with all the advantages, but without the disadvantages of a tracked vehicle.

Lockheed calls it "A fixed-wing, side-firing aerial gunship that provides close air support, air interdiction and force protection".

During the 1950's, the C130 Hercules was adapted for a variety of missions. This particular version (130H "Spectre II") is the 1973 version. Ten of the previous versions (-E) were converted into this model. In 1986 thirteen more were build, then converted into the 130U "Spooky".

They are highly efficient, but a bit slow. Of the total of 53 planes that were made between 1953 and 1995, 8 were shot down in action, 2 of which were 130H (january '91 and march '94). The remaining 8 of this model are still in service with the 16th Special Operations Squadron (SOS) at Hurlburt Field, Florida.

It's onboard armament consists of :
- 2 x M61 20mm Vulcan cannons (3000 rounds)
- 1 x L60 40mm Bofors cannon (256 rounds)
- 1 x M102 105mm Howitser (100 rounds)

Each wing supports 2 pylons for fuel tanks or missiles.

What's in the box?
On to the contents of the box. 4 sprues contain all the parts we'll need and - at first glance - some extra's. Dry-fitting the 2 fuselage halves tell me I'll be working some extra hours on them. All part of the job ...

Decals appear to be lacking a bit of colour, but I'm glad all those little lines are included and I do not have to paint them.

The building instructions are adequately detailed, but going through it, I already see there will be need for a lot of "guestimation" on some parts' correct placement.

I've already started construction (and postponed posting this entry), so expect part 2 to come really quick.

Sprue Cutters Union 33: Your Stress Free Build

There are those people that claim our hobby to be a source of relaxation, a provider of some sense of achievement. Time maybe to take a step back and see if this holds true for everyone?

- What is your source for pure relaxation? -

I have more than one source for relaxation, but I wouldn't call modelling my primary source of inner peace and quiet. I have other sources for that.

When I'm truly yearning for relaxation, I will just plant my behind firmly in the sofa and watch a movie or series. Currently, that would be the season endings of The Walking Dead, Supernatural, Person of Interest and NCIS, after having recently discovered and devoured the first 4 season of Falling Skies.

Another big time-consumer is AD&D, which I play both as participant and dungeon master, taking about 2 days a month actually playing and at least 3-4 evenings planning the next session. Relaxing isn't the word I'd use to describe this hobby, but the almost mandatory total immersion in another world gives me the often-needed sense of being away from it all.

Back to the actual subject of this blog : scale modelling.

I wouldn't call relaxation the primary goal of why I build scale models. It involves a lot of time trying (and failing) new things, disassembling an unwilling airbrush, locating a missing part on the carpet, dropping paint or cleaner on a fresh paint-job (being clumsy doesn't help a lot), ... to start wondering why the hell we do this "for fun"?

For me, the words challenging and rewarding are closer to home. They are also what I would use to describe what attracts me in my day-job (being a software engineer). The challenges of scale modelling can be big or small, starting with the choice of colours, whether or not to deviate from the building instructions, correct a "flaw" or not, ... It can stop there, but you can challenge yourself further. Do you want light or heavy weathering? Paint chipping? Maybe some battle damage here and there? I haven't mastered ANY technique, but tried out a few, and know enough that I want to continue trying to do "better" each time.

To answer today's true question : the most relaxing part of the build is the actual building for me : snipping parts from the sprue and gluing them together, hiding imperfections (or trying my best), filling and sanding seams (if not TOO many, that is).
Basic airbrushing has become less of a challenge (although it took over a year to get to this point) and laying down the primer and basecoat is usually relaxing as well, but there are many more tricks to learn.

If I do not constrain myself, I would probably open a new kit every week, and putting it aside halfway through painting.

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Other spruecutters' thoughts:

• Doogs' Models
• The Combat Workshop
• David Knights' Weblog
• Motorsport Modeller
• The Museum Modeler

Sprue Cutters Union 32: The aftermarket

In this modern age, we have access to upgrade or extra parts, photo-etch or resin, fully detailed interior sets, decal sets and so on. Does this make it easier for us than modellers had it "back in the day"?

- Has the Aftermarket Taken All the Hard Work Out of Modeling? -

There are many considerations to take before throwing yourself on the aftermarket, "Cost" being a big one of them. I use the term cost and not price, because it's more than just the price tag.

I've seen fellow modellers turn out really impressive models, spending 3 or 4 times to kit's initial budget on extra resin stowage or whatever. The result is awe-inspiring, but for me, that price is too high. The joy of building is my main goal, without attacking the household budget. When showing off a model, my aim is "Nice!", not jaw-dropping awesome.

Time is also a cost and a big factor to consider if your modelling time - like mine - is rather limited.
I can spend 2 to 3 months (or more in some cases) on one model, building it out-of-the-box and being very happy with the result. I could spend twice that time with aftermarket fenders that have a "better scale-thickness", or I could have opened one hatch, revealing a tiny portion of a fully detailed resin engine kit, which can only really be admired by looking at the photos taken before closing up the model.
Frankly, I'd rather just start the next model. This is a personal preference, of course.

I have dabbled with scratch-building when I built an interior for the Chinook. I was not going to spend €20 for a fully detailed set on a €10 model. I found it very rewarding to make it myself, but I'm not going to be modifying every model from now on. I like building out of the box, as the designer of the kit intended it. I'm not fussed about inaccuracies or even blatant errors. If the lower hull is 2 scale inch short, I will not be going for 100% accuracy by performing mayor surgery on it.

Aftermarket photo-etch requires a skillset of it's own, bending, attaching and painting many tiny pieces. You're not necessarily making it easy for yourself by adding detail.

I guess washes and pigments also count as aftermarket? In this aspect of it, I'm guilty as charged. One bottle goes a looong way and makes my life easier by saving time. I have however also purchased a number of oils, because I want to try it the "old way" as well.

Whether you go OOB or AM, this hobby is about spending time. So, in short, my answer to this month's question is : NO.  Au contraire, if you choose to take the aftermarket-road, chances are you'll be spending a lot of extra time.

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Opinions may differ. Check out the other Sprue Cutters' responses :

• Plastic Models
• David Knight's Weblog
• International Scale Modeller

Viper - Part 7 (Decals)

After 2 layers of Alclad II varnish, it was time for decals. On the Mark VII that was done quickly, on the Mark II it was a whole other story.
Don't get me wrong. The Revell decals are sturdy AND flexible. Where needed, they respond extremely well to setting solutions (I use Microscale  Micro Set & Sol). There's just so many of them ...

The tail stripe is broken up in many pieces. Rather cleverly, each piece has no more than 1 irregular shape to conform to, making it a lot easier to get them in place. Below a picture of an almost finished stripe, just missing a small horizontal strip (and one on top of the tailfin).

After applying your preferred setting solution, wrinkling (shown below) may occur. Do not worry: it will go away again, UNLESS you can't resist touching it, or the decal wasn't entirely placed straight in the first place. It pays to go slow and not rush through the many decals.

I mentioned the clever tail stripe design? I can tell future makers of this kit to pay extra attention to the horizontal part. Make sure both the lower and upper parts of the stripe have a little extra to help cover this gap, otherwise you end up with the result below!

How to touch-up these parts? The 2 Vallejo bottles of red I have don't match the color of the decals, so I was dreading having to mix and match paint to cover this mistake, but then I remembered I still have a LOAD of Humbrol/Revell paint, bound to contain the right shade of red.

Bingo! Humbrol #19 (Gloss bright red) is a near exact match. The bottle is over 20 years old and a gooey mess, because the oil has separated from the pigments. But some stirring and some added white spirit yielded more than enough to work with. The result is more than satisfying.

Before and after.

The 2 sisters, side by side, ready for another coat of varnish, then on to some decent weathering.

One small setback. While doing the decals on the Mark VII, I noticed a huge and ugly seam line over the tailfin. No idea how I missed it so far. I should really go over the entire model with more attention befóre I start painting. Oh well, these models have gone back to the spraybooth so many times already, one more session won't hurt.

Sprue Cutters Union 31: Is the hobby dying?

Another month, another Sprue Cutters topic. I can't believe we used to do this weekly and pull it off for 28 weeks!

- Is scale modeling a dying hobby? -

As I'm a little late this month pitching in my 2 cents, most of my colleagues have already written long and detailed statements. Opinions seem united on the answer : No, our hobby is not dying, but it HAS changed a lot since we were kids.

A little history (on a different topic)

25 years ago, we had a tape player at home (the kind with actual reels, not cassettes). It was ancient even back then. My mom had used it as a kid to tape music from the radio. Me and my brother were of course using the more modern cassette player.

When you wanted to share your favourite music with a classmate, you needed TWO cassette players, one playing, one recording. If someone walked in asking why it was so loud, you had to start over. Much later, we got a new player with TWO slots, which supported high-speed dubbing.

When the age of the CD came, there was a lot of resistance, but we adapted. I haven't owned a car in over 10 years that even had a cassette player anymore.

Betamax, VHS, DVD, Blueray, .... the times are simply changing. Nowadays, you can share your playlists with a single-click and order movies online for next to nothing and start watching within seconds. Has the music/video industry died? Are we no longer able to enjoy our favourites?

Back to modelling

Those same 25 years ago, I had my pick of models in various supermarkets, all stocking around 20 kits (all Revell) and a rack of Revell and Humbrol paint. Every time I went back (every few months), they had 2 or 3 NEW models. I thought I'd never be able to build all of them!

New techniques, I had to discover myself. Weathering? No such products lined the shelves, so I was never confronted with them, teasing me into trying out something new.
The amount of kits you could buy on the internet back then? What internet?

Over the years, general supermarkets stopped stocking kits and I had to resort to toy stores. Even later, only the specialist "Hobby store" remained and as of last year, all of them have disappeared in my area.

Have we lost something in the process? Sure. Browsing the shelves, checking new stock, the smell of old cardboard and paint, running into other modellers, ... No more then nostalgia for us, but there's still conventions of course. (now more than way back them)

Is our hobby dying?

I'd say "No, perhaps even the opposite?"

• I can browse thousands of kits online  (let's forget about aftermarket stuff for now) and have them delivered in just a couple of  days. 
• Youtube provides hundreds of hours of people teaching new techniques or reviewing new products.
• Fellow modellers share images of their work. Some even write blogs!
• Every month, at least 10 new kits are announced.
• New company's are still being created, both kit and paint manufacturers.

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Please follow the links below to see the ramblings and musings of my fellow Sprue Cutters:

• The Eternal Wargamer
• Scale Model Workbench
• Doogs' Models
• Mattblackgod's World
• Kermit's Bench
• The Combat Workshop

Time flies

I can't believe 4 weeks went by without any post. It's not that I've done nothing, but certainly not as much as I would've liked.

Where were we?

• The patriot radar truck was being painted.
• The Vipers had been painted and needed a coat of varnish.
• I had finished the photo-etch on the Panzerjäger.
• The Chinook was "finished" late september, but requires some light weathering.
• The castle hasn't been touched since november, when I did some experimenting with oil paints.

Do you feel the disadvantage of not being able to focus on one kit?

So, if I haven't done nothing the past month, what HAVE I been doing?

Patriot Radar

Painting was finished, the entire thing was varnished and decals have been applied. The building instructions only mention where to place 15-20 decals, but many more are provided on the decal sheet. I guess I went a little crazy creative.

Vipers

The Vipers both needed just a coat of varnish, before decaling. Because the Mark II is going to receive many big decals, I sanded the entire body extra smooth (Tamiya sanding paper, 1200-2000 grit) before I started with varnishing.

I've been experiencing issues with spraying the Alclad II varnishes lately, but if I thin it 50/50 with white spirit (or "mineral spirits") it sprays perfectly, more controlled and levels smoother. It does require at least 2 layers however.

The Mark II has been giving me troubles. First the paint lifted after I masked off the side engines. Then when everything was smooth and done (again), I dropped a big blob of glue on it when attaching the nose gear. Some harsh words could have been heard ...

Panzerjäger

With the photo-etch done, I primed it black, added a layer of chipping fluid, then the sand-coloured basecoat. I'm doing both the plastic and PE version to see if all the extra PE- trouble is really worth it in the end.

Chinook

I finally convinced myself to finish the Chinook. I started with a very fine layer of AK dust effects, because I want to make the black and red less "in your face". The dust managed to creep under some of the decals, distorting the intended effect somewhat. I'll add another layer of matte varnish, then do some darkening aft of the exhausts. (and also some dust over the rotor blades)

Also some light dust effects on the Patriot truck, if you can spot it, near the bottom of the side thingies (fuel tanks?).