Starfury - Which sheet shall I take?

The Enterprise and the Mustang are slowly getting there. The M60 is somehow not managing to draw my attention, even though it only needs some final black and white camo spots.  Progress is slow as I can't spend as much time at the workbench as I'd like, but slow progress is progress nonetheless.

Tonight, I felt like some simple and straightforward construction. I admit it, I like the smell of glue. The Starfury caught my eye and it's about time we do something about this one.

The fit for the inner wings isn't perfect, but this model was never gonna be my masterpiece. It's a shame to let it sit unfinished, so instead of worrying about seamlines that are neigh unreachable or other imperfections, I'm just gonna finish it up as is.

Time to show off my new set of clamps :

And now for the hardest part : which decal scheme will I choose? There are 6 options! I already decided NOT to go for Sheridan's tiger. I'm currently leaning toward the Delta 7 (the green one).

Masking, hours of fun!

I was sick at home today, but well enough to spend some time (a couple of hours) masking the Enterprise, preparing it for it's first blue stripes. I estimate 5-6 meters of tape went into this.

I hope to finish the lightblue stripes tomorrow. The top of the saucer requires further masking of the lightblue to prepare for the darker blue, so - just to be safe - I will allow 24 hours drytime before I add more tape.

If all goes according to plan (i.e. the airbrush remains friendly) I should be finishing this model rather soon.

Sprue Cutters Union #4: FML...

It's already been 4 weeks since the launch of the Sprue Cutter's Union.
The what? you say? Check it out over at The Combat Workshop, where Jon had the brilliant idea of launching a weekly topic, for all modelling bloggers (or is that blogging modellers?) to discuss.

The obvious advantage for all of the participants is to share thoughts about our common hobby and increase traffic to our respective blogs. I like that it gives me food for thought and makes me reflect on various aspects of our favourite passtime.

This week's assignment :

- What is the worst experience you've had with this hobby? -

In the past, I've made my share of mistakes. Fingerprints in glue on a fuselage, obscured details because the paint was too thick, parts that fly off when you cut them from the sprue, ... You know, the standard stuff that teaches us what we know now, like we learned not to ride a bike into a ditch (I still have the scars) and not to jump on top of a football.

When I returned to this hobby last year, after an absence of about 10 years, I swore I wouldn't make those mistakes anymore. Still, I can be impatient sometimes, and that's when I make them again : too much glue, hastily masked, too much paint, ... all over again. Experimenting with new tools or techniques can also be frustrating, but the positive thing about mistakes is learning something from them. I think the following cartoon sums it up nicely :

Longterm frustration
The most irritating and frustrating part after this first year is still the airbrush. Whether I'm just clumsy, unlucky, or I managed to get that one bad-mannered, ill-tempered airbrush, I'm still fighting it every step of the way. Don't get me wrong, the paintjob on my finished models is good, and infinitely better than when I was brushpainting. Some people can do magic with a simple brush, but I'm not one of those people.

When the airbrush is behaving, I'm over the moon with how easy it goes, how smooth the painted surface is and how every little detail is still conserved.

But a large portion of my time spent with it, is wondering what I did wrong to make it upset again. Only time and a lot of patience will improve this, but I'll admit that sometimes I haven't made any modelling progress in 2 or 3 weeks, just because I'm scared of going to the workbench, where "it" lies mocking me.

FML moments
Two particular FML moments do come to mind.

#1 - opening the box of the Enterprise-C
It had been lying in the attic for 10+ years when I encountered it again, looking for paint. I remember wondering why I hadn't made that one, until I opened it and remembered a huge chunk of the saucer was missing. (See picture below. The clear part was an early attempty at doing something about it)

I've tried to put a positive spin on it and made an attempt at replicating a part for it with plaster in a latex mold. The result is far from perfect, but it was a learning experience.

This is how it looks now, not completely painted.

#2 - Trying to move a closet full of models and books
When dismantling a closet for a pending move, I was emptying it shelf by shelf, starting with the top. When I removed a big stack of books, the shelf they had been sitting on fell out ... on top of the shelf beneath it ... crushing several models beyond all repair. 

I don't have any pictures of the casualties. There was a Kamov Ka-50 helicopter (dual rotors) with a rather nice camouflage pattern, and the lunar lander module with very fine details, all gold-plated with actual gold foil.

---

Part of being a member of the Sprue Cutter's Union is sharing links to the other participant's entries.
Here's what others had to say about their worst experiences :

• The Combat Workshop learned about Sharpies
• David Knight found an easy way to disperse paint
• Lt Smash found a Bantam modelled for uneved terrain
• A Scale Canadian with a dislike for ... canopies!
• MattBlackGod's World has feline assistants
• Martin's scale models hates bad forums
• Doog's Models can't stand absolutists
• Kermit's bench learned the downside of waiting too long
• TheDogChuffers scale model workshop learned to put a positive spin on FML moments
• The Eternal Wargamer also knows the joys of cat-ownership
• Havoc Models and the war against gravity.

Ford Shelby - A few details

I emphasized the underside details with Vallejo Aluminium (71.062). The Model Air version is actually too thin for brushpainting (I would need the bottle from the Model Colour range), but it's a little ridiculous to have 2 bottles of the same colour in 2 different viscosities, especially since it's only a detail colour that will probably last years.

It is too runny, so the paint tends to flow open even were I don't want it to, but as soon as it was dry enough (less than 1 hour), I went over it again with black to touch up little spots.

I initially painted the seats with Model Air white (also too runny), which would give no coverage at all, so I kinda overdid it. I tend to get impatient and then I do stupid things. You can still see it, particularly on the backseats. I have since ordered the Model Colour white, which is not as thin, to add more (and thinner) layers.
I made an exception to my above statement about different bottles for the same colour, since I'm always using white to lighten paint anyway (the Enterprise base colour and highlights all require 80% or 90% white).

I have to retract my statement from the previous post, about not finding reference photo's that match the model, because I found the perfect match. I haven't found any white Super Snakes yet, but the leather seats seem to match the outside colour, so white stripes it is.

I printed the reference photo to scale and cut off 2 pieces for the dashboard. The picture does not do it justice. I swear it looks 10 times better in reality. When the model is finished, you will only see it sideways, but it's much better than a flat black surface.

Product experiment - Microscale Kristal Klear

I haven't done much, modelling-wise, the last 10 days. I was waiting for new paint for the Mustang. 

I added a new product to my order : Microscale's Kristal Klear. From the same company that makes MicroSol and MicroSet for treating decals, this product is used to create lenses and (small) windows.

Basically it's a kind of glue that dries completely colourless and transparent. It can be used to glue clear parts (e.g. canopy, lenses, ...) as it dries clear and doesn't fog the clear part like super glue ("CA glue") does. I've read you need to apply constant pressure, though, or it doesn't really stick. Just a matter of keeping some clamps nearby.

On the picture below, a fresh wet puddle, which is still white and a dry patch beside it. When completely dry, it feels rubbery. I could peel it off the metal dish and it has the same feel as dried Latex, except for being completely transparent.

When applied to a small opening - windows on a model airliner for instance - it can be used to "bridge the gap". I made an impromptu window with some left-over sprue below. Once dry, it's as transparent as a glass window. Well, maybe not perfectly like glass, and I also got an airbubble trapped inside the window, but practice makes perfect.

Besides creating windows from openings, it can also be used to make lenses or whatever you want to have transparent. For the Ford Shelby's side mirrors, I placed a tiny piece of aluminum foil inside the part and covered it (liberally) with the Kristal Klear. Once dry, it was completely transparent again.

(In the future, I will be more careful to get the foil straight and flat, because now it looks rather ugly.)

Sprue Cutters Union #3: Playing Favorites

Our third assignment, and not an easy one : "What is your favourite model?"

This was actually a very tough one to crack. I pondered on it a few days, looked at the list of all my models and I've come to a decision : it's impossible for me to pick a favourite. 

It's like asking someone "Who's your favourite child?".
I only have one, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to answer that one either.

I consider my collection rather modest, compared to some I've seen around the net. Then again, I'm only 35. Unless my hands or eyesight fail me too soon, I have at least 30-40 years left to expand my skills and collection.

I have 45 models that I call my "old models", all finished between 10 and 20 years ago. 

Since coming back to this hobby 1 year ago, I've finished 4, have 3 or 4 works-in-progress and a very modest stash of only 3 kits. Progress is sometimes a bit slow, because I'm trying to figure out a new tool or technique, waiting for a particular paint or product I ordered in the hobby shop or just not finding enough time to sit behind the workbench.

I have a few (older) models that I'm not so proud of. Shabby paintjob, rushed construction, silvered decals, ... but among the rest I cannot choose a favourite between any 2 given models.

Ask me this question again in a few years. Maybe I'll be able to point to a model without needing to think, considering it my proudest achievement. 

For now, all I can say is that all my models have provided my with many hours of joy. There was often also frustration, but it's all part of the hobby.

If I were to give you a top 3, I would list the following, in no particular order, all tied in first place :

F-117A Nighthawk

My very first model and what got me hooked for many years.

I have since learned not to follow the instruction booklet blindly, but think about the best assembly order and consider what and what not to paint before putting everything together.

The Millenium Falcon

My biggest Star Wars model, with exposable interior 

The Enterprise, NCC-1701-D

My very first Star trek model with a brushpainted aztec-pattern on which I spend many, many hours.

I guess this model mostly tought me patience.

What other members of the Sprue Cutters Union have to say about this :

• TheDogsChuffers Scale model workshop
• The Combat Workshop
• Kermit's Bench
• Doog's Models
• The Eternal Wargamer
• A Scale Canadian <-- New Union member!

Ford Shelby - priming

I primed the red plastic with Vallejo white primer, which went decent. 

When dry, I added a first layer of 50% white, 50% gloss varnish. Thinned a little to promote a better paintflow, it still wouldn't spray very well, resulting in a not-so-smooth paintjob. You'll just have to forgive me.

I'm thinking of giving up on the Vallejo varnish, as it is only giving me trouble. Maybe it's coincidence, but I always have airbrush-problems as soon as I try this gloss varnish.

I'll try the next layer with Tamiya gloss, although I've heard it has an insane drying time. We'll see.

The inside was primed black, to hide all the red plastic, but there's a lot of overspray from doing the outside. Most of it will be hidden by the interior parts, so only a few spots will need to be handbrushed black.

The inside and underside are primed in black. They actually look better painted black than just the bare black plastic. I left a few parts unpainted, namely those that are carbon on the real model as well. We'll just see which parts look better, painted or not.

I like black leather seats and dark interiors, so I'm not going to do too much inside, except maybe for the dashboard.

The chrome wheels look nice. The tires fit excellent and require no glue. As a detail, I painted the break calipers red, as on the real car.

Warning : remember which wheel goes where! The rear wheels are slightly bigger and there's a difference in the left and right break disc and tire threads, so make sure you don't switch them around.

The dashboard was left unprimed, because I misplaced it, but I've got it back in the meantime. I don't know which model Shelby this is supposed to be, because the dashboard matches none of my reference photos. I'll be trying to add a very small picture of the navigation screen, to liven it up a little.

Enterprise - Basecoat done

The Enterprises base-coat in light-grey is done. (80% white, 20% Vallejo 71.050). 

It's a big surface to airbrush, especially when airbrushing isn't always very successfull. After my recent discovery of at least one issue with the airbrush, it has become a lot easier to use. It still goes rather slow at times, but when you hold to model under the correct angle, you clearly see where you're spraying and how much paint is slowly building up. Slow and steady wins the race, I guess.

There are still issues to resolve and things to get a better handle on, but I do feel finally some progress has been made. The rest is just a matter of building experience with it, but I no longer feel reluctant to spend a few hours at the workbench. Proof of that being that I spend 3 sessions of 2 hours each in 2 consecutive days. (Spending my last few days of vacation at home helps a little).

Next up : another round of masking. We're back on track!

Academy 1/43 Ford Shelby GT 500 "Super Snake" - Unboxing

It's not really an unboxing, because I washed the parts many months ago, but for the purpose of this blog, let's pretend it's the first time we open the box.

I was aching for a new quick project, on which progress would be quick ("Quick" should be interpreted rather loosely) and picked Academy's 1/43 Ford Shelby GT 500 "Super Snake" (#15517) from my stash.

I'm not going to start building model cars now, but I bought this model last year because I am in love with the actual car. If I ever win the lottery, this would most likely be the car I'd buy. Well, after settling my mortgage with the bank, putting at least half of my winnings away for "later", throwing a huge party, go on a superlong vacation, etc. 

Two black and two red sprues contain the majority of the parts. Details appear very nice, all parts are flash-free and ejector-pins are located in places that won't be visible once assembled.

There are 4 vinyl tires with decent threading and 2 chrome sprues for the rims and breaks. One clear sprue for the windshield and the lights. The rear and front windshield are in one piece, which will be a major help when assembling.

Decals are provided with black stripes and a few markings. An extra bag contains 2 screws, to close the body, and 2 axles for the wheels.

Assembly looks ridiculously easy. There are many locator pins and matching holes, leaving no doubt as to where what goes.
The coloured sprues, large locator pins and the screws make this an excellent model to just put together in a couple of minutes, with only a few parts that will require minimal glue.

The building instructions is a six-page booklet, all in Chinese (I assume). All I could decipher was something about "small parts", but I'm not sure whether not to swallow them or cook them with rice. Just do what feels logical, it looks supersimple.

As for the colour : I didn't like the harsh red. If I were to buy it, it would be black with white stripes, but for this model that would render the decals for the skirts and other details useless, so that's not really an option. I googled several colour schemes, fell in love with the lightblue version, but settled for white with a blue stripe.

M60 - turret camouflage

Having learned something about the airbrush (namely to verify every so often if the needle cap is firmly - meaning airtight - connected to the nozzle cap), I can now spray paint less heavily thinned, giving me more control over the amount of paint that ends up in certain places.

The green layer over this turret, prepped with silly putty, should be thinner, meaning no standing up paint edges against the edge of the putty.

I removed the putty a few hours later and the result is indeed a lot better. Not yet perfect, mind you, but progress is progress.

If you've read how I did the rest of the tank, you'll notice the absence of white and black details. I intend to do those different this time. Stay tuned.